By Celina Colby

The all-star team behind Thai standout Mahaniyom in Brookline Village has opened a playful sibling just a few blocks down on Harvard Street. Merai is a Thai dive bar that fuses the deep, bold flavors of Thai cuisine with the comfort food and casual atmosphere of an American dive bar. 

Co-owners Smuch Saikamthorn and Chompon Boonnak made waves in the local food scene when Mahaniyom, which focuses on authentic Thai dishes and unique craft cocktails, was named one of the best restaurants in Boston by the New York Times. With Merai, the duo wanted to loosen up and have a little more fun.

“The whole concept is that we’ve got to do something new in the neighborhood,” says Boonnak. “To me, a dive bar is a place that people can just come and have a beer, nobody judging, super casual. And on top of that, we do really good food.” 

Their most popular and Instagrammable dish is a Thai-infused hot dog made with krapaw sausage, salted egg yolk mayo, and caramelized basil onion. Other dishes include dumplings, steak tartare, cold noodles, and a kale salad. On the bar, guests can order drinks like the Sober Opera with Citadelle gin, St. Germaine, rose, and lychee honey foam or the Lucky Sunny with Del Miguel Vida mezcal, turmeric, honey, and Mr. Black coffee.

“We want to focus on hospitality,” says Boonnak. And it appears to be working; Merai has already acquired a dedicated group of regulars. “We have a lot of customers that come every week. We have a customer that comes twice a week.” 

It’s no accident that both Mahaniyom and Merai are located in Brookline Village. Boonnak says the team’s landlord at Mahaniyom had the Merai space open up and thought of the restaurant group right away. They’re in good company with industry friends at Blossom Bar just down the street. Blossom Bar bartender Will Isaza recently did a pop-up night bartending at Merai. 

Boonnak also has deep ties to the area. He’s a Boston University alum and has lived in Brookline for years. Back in the day, he used to bartend at the famous Golden Temple restaurant on Beacon Street in Washington Square. 

“We love it. The neighborhood is so good,” he says. “I recognize a lot of customers and they become like friends, like family now.” 

If you’re planning a family reunion, head to Merai for craft cocktails and Thai-inspired comfort food. Though it’s a hot new spot, Boonnak says they leave about half the seats open for walk-ins, so there’s always a spot for Brookline regulars.